Lily has compressed herself in a shivering clump about the size of a basketball. Outside our tent are honks and screams and cackles and roars in the blackness of night. Hoofs are trampling by but something else is going on…

Africa Day 21: Murder mystery in the Serengeti and the Creekmore ‘Big Five’

Africa Day 20: Stupid songs, stupid people and the best safari ever.
The camp is lively at dawn but it’s freaking cold. I can hear multiple languages from different tents. On the backs of the jeeps are the tour company names that I didn’t choose – Bob’s tours, Roy’s tours, Duma’s tours, and others…

Africa Day 19: Screaming and breaking the rules, and a drugged Trish encounters elephant ass.
One wakes up with the same expectations every day on adventure travel – that it will go according to plan, and you’ll see some great shit. Some of the time, you are very wrong. I awake rested. Zanzibar is great,…

Africa Day 18: Exploring the markets and street food of Stonetown, Zanzibar
Our goals for today are modest by adventure standards. We want to see a museum, score some souvenir loot and eat some food at the night market. It feels like a ‘day off’ because we can eat breakfast late and…

Africa Day 17: Snorkle adventure on Chumbe Island and the Tutu story develops.
There is a couple arguing about 10 feet away. She seems anxious about the storms that are over Chumbe island, our destination for the day. Indeed, they look dark and one can see the rain falling. I hope that her…